By: Zeb Hargett

A day trip or extended stay along the Mississippi Gulf Coast is always entertaining, especially when you add fine dining to the equation. On a recent visit, I met a friend for lunch at Mary Mahoney’s Old French House Restaurant and the experience was outstanding. Eileen Mahoney Ezell runs the restaurant with her brother, Bobby Mahoney, and cousins Tony Cvitanovich, Andra Osman, and JoAnna McAdams. It’s a family affair with lots of history dating back to 1737!

The house itself is one of the oldest along the coast and has survived many hurricanes. As I entered the small, quaint bar, Eileen greeted me and gave me a quick tour and history lesson. This part of the restaurant was once servant’s quarters, with the kitchen and residence separate from the main house for cultural and safety reasons. 

As we walk up to the main floor, I see two watermarks from past hurricanes, Camille and Katrina. It is amazing that the house survived at all. Every wall in the restaurant is adorned with memorabilia and photos of famous people who have dined at Mary Mahoney’s. Too numerous to name, the photos set the mood and remind patrons that decades of customers have enjoyed a wonderful dining experience.

Mary Mahoney’s is replete with beautiful small and large dining spaces that can accommodate any size group or small special occasion. Over the years, Eileen tells me they have added several new dining and banquet rooms for larger groups. The restaurant has long been known as a gathering place for the elite, business executives, and local, state, and Federal politicians. People drive from near and far to dine.

With this larger-than-life reputation, Eileen tells me everyone is welcome, from the shrimp boat captains to US Presidents and celebrities who have dined there. “We are a family. Some of our servers have been with us for over 40 years. We feed the staff every day. We treat everyone the same, whether you are a big wig or someone who just wants to celebrate a special occasion.”

Mary Mahoney, the restaurant’s namesake, is present throughout. Photos and paintings of the matriarch let you know this establishment, now 60 years old, is an institution for fine dining and creating memories. The house itself predates the Louisiana Purchase and rivals the fine dining establishments of New Orleans. 

In a community founded on seafood, Bob and Mary Mahoney began early in the hospitality game, with Bob serving as General Manager and Mary running the lounge at the Tivoli Hotel. Mary’s ebullient personality captured the attention of business leaders and politicians and created a popular hangout in Biloxi. 

When the new ownership of the Tivoli decided not to retain the Mahoneys, they stood strong but eventually relinquished their positions. Bob took a job with the local newspaper, the Daily Herald while Mary entertained former bar patrons at their beachside residence. The Daily Herald’s offices were adjacent to the “Old French House.”

When the owners of Old French House decided to put it on the market, Bob and Mary partnered with Mary’s brother, Andrew, to purchase it and open a restaurant. It took two years to renovate the property while Mary shopped for furnishings. Mary Mahoney’s Old French House Restaurant opened on Ascension Thursday, May 7, 1964.   

An immediate success, the restaurant elevated the dining offerings and raised the level of service with green-jacketed elegance. Mary’s flare for fashion and her high-spirited personality generated the area’s premier restaurant and built a reputation for a sought-after fine dining experience.

The Who's Who list of celebrities, business executives, sports stars, and politicians who dined there, only added to the allure of Mary Mahoney’s. Throughout the past 60 years, the reputation for excellence is evident in the cuisine served from recipes that have stood the test of time. Bobby says, “We’ve always been a seafood restaurant with a Cajun flare, an example being our crème dishes.”

As a young man, Bobby served as the titular Maître D for his mother and says the menu hasn’t changed that much since 1964 when she opened the restaurant. Today he greets patrons, many he’s known for years, as he walks around the restaurant offering quick jokes and conversation. He clearly loves what he does and is good at it. He even has his own YouTube joke channel, Bobby Mahoney Jokes, and will do a 15-minute stand-up routine for private parties upon request.

Eileen, ten years younger than Bobby, tells me about their family history and how it all started in Biloxi. Her grandparents owned a grocery store, Sanitary Seafood, and a shrimp dock. As fresh seafood came off the boats, her grandmother would, “Grub up the shrimp boats” with supplies. 

“Mother really wanted to be a fashion designer. She had a big personality, was very theatrical, loved the arts, and every Sunday would read the Lifestyle section of the New York Times cover to cover. She loved opera, horse racing, and entertaining.” 

When the lounge at the Tivoli Hotel became available in the 50s, she wanted to open it and cater to the traveling salespeople coming through town. She bartended and would offer free drinks to anyone who could play the piano. 

“She was an ambassador for Biloxi. She loved to travel, she would know everyone’s name, and before they departed, they all wanted to visit Biloxi,” says Eileen of her mother. As she ascended the social ladder, she became one of Mississippi’s leading personalities and promoters. 

In 1979, Mary started an annual trip to Washington DC to serve the State’s congressional delegation and friends, and in 1984, she brought her roadshow to the White House lawn where she served President Ronald Reagan. She was the first woman to be named Small Business Person of the Year in Mississippi and the first woman to serve as President of the Biloxi Chamber of Commerce.

Many accolades have been granted to Mary Mahoney and the restaurant named after her. Celebrities have written about her, including John Grisham, who looks forward to his annual delivery of Mary Mahoney’s famous gumbo to serve during the holidays. Eileen tells me they ship 750 gallons of this coveted gumbo every holiday. 

When the idea of opening a drinking establishment after the Tivoli Hotel shooed Bob and Mary away, the law said that an establishment must serve food to sell alcohol. A menu of family recipes was written on a manila folder, which they still have today. The building has expanded over the years, but the menu is almost the same “We have great cooks, and we surround ourselves with good people. That’s the secret to our success.”

As we tour the dining rooms and banquet halls, we walk down to the wine cellar, where the roots of the stately old Oak tree can be seen crossing the floor. The tree, named Patriarch, stands in the courtyard adjacent to the main house, surrounded by sculptures and ivy. It is estimated to be 2000 years old, reminding us that this area along the coast of Mississippi has a long history. 

Mary Mahoney’s French House Restaurant has stood the test of time for 60 years and is a testament to the Mahoney/Cvitanovich family and the love they have for seafood, tradition, their home state, and especially the people they’ve been privileged to entertain. 

My dining experience was exceptional and the company even better. Do yourself a favor and plan a visit to Biloxi and Mary Mahoney’s. You will be glad you did!