By: Zeb Hargett

Daneen Buck is a staple around these parts. Born and raised in Fairhope, she and her family have been immersed in some kind of restaurant or food business all their lives. Her father was a meat salesman for Armour Meats and sold to many of the local restaurants in the Baldwin County area. Daneen’s parents were comfortable in the kitchen and passed the love of cooking, creating, and entertaining on to their kids.

“Dad was a great cook. Mom was a fabulous cook!” she tells me. “As a meat salesman, Dad sold to Gino’s Restaurant in Magnolia Springs. It was his favorite restaurant in the area. Gino’s was very popular but had a small kitchen. Gino decided to expand the seating to meet demand, but the kitchen could only produce so much and the restaurant ended up closing. This was a lesson that stuck with Daneen.

In 1978, her parents bought the old “Little Giant” gas station, now known as  Battles Wharf Market. Daneen was in the 7th or 8th grade and remembers her dad putting a red hot dog steamer machine at the store.  People were wrapped around the building to purchase a Buck Dawg. The old gas pumps are still there but out of service today. 

“The gas pumps would only go as high as $1.99 so instead of installing new pumps when gas went above $2.00 a gallon, Dad just quit selling gas.” Jimbo Meador, whose family lived close by, describes today’s Battles Wharf Market as the “No gas- gas station.” When Daneen’s father died, her mother sold the store to her son, Ken, who owns and operates it today.

Battles Wharf Market is a go-to place for fresh sandwiches, wraps, breakfast wraps, and biscuits, and all “essential” entertaining food items including a nice assortment of wines. Just what you need in a pinch! On most mornings, there is a collection of friends gathered to enjoy coffee and swap tall tales. Daneen refers to it as a “Gastaurant.”

Another infamous dining and bar that is no longer with us, was Boo Boo’s King Cole Cub in Point Clear. One of the few places where you could get something to eat on a Sunday, you were at the mercy of the owner and cook, Marie. The food was excellent and offered a limited menu that included gumbo, West Indies salad, delicious hamburgers, and perfectly charred steaks. 

Cantankerous might be an appropriate description of Marie. I remember stopping by one Sunday, seeing several friends at the bar, and asking Marie’s son, who was bartending, if I might place an order. “Let me see how the Braves are doing,” he said. “If they’re winning, you’re probably good. If not, let’s see what kind of mood Marie is in.” Fortunately, the Braves were ahead at the time.

Boo Boo’s was just one of the legendary places in the Fairhope area.  There weren’t many places from which to choose in those days and  I fondly remember the few available dining options were always good and a treat to visit. In those days, most meals were prepared at home. Jubilees meant eating like kings for a week!

Another establishment long gone was Max’s Hamburgers where The Supper Club is today on Scenic 98. Pelican Point was another of Harry Johnson’s creations at the end of Baldwin County Road 1 where Weeks Bay and Mobile Bay meet. All of these places have had some influence on Daneen’s epicurean vision.

Before her brother, Ken, took over Battles Wharf Market, he owned Buck’s Diner in downtown Fairhope. Daneen ran the place for 11 years. It was a popular breakfast and lunch spot before the owner of the building died and the new owners decided not to renew the lease giving them 30 days to vacate.

Daneen says she took a couple of months off and played around while figuring out what she would do next. After turning down several offers to manage restaurants for others, she decided to take a huge risk and open her own place. “I had nothing to lose. If it didn’t work out, I could just walk away and start over,” she says.

“I thought about opening a BBQ and wings place and was seriously looking at a property in Fairhope to purchase. Some people got wind that I was looking for a spot to open a restaurant and brought me to the Point Clear Swim and Tennis Club.” 

“I immediately fell in love with the place. I had always wanted to open a steakhouse of sorts, a low-key steak and burger joint was the plan, but when I walked into the long unused restaurant at  the Point Clear Tennis Club, I was struck by the ambiance of the place and immediately realized ‘low-key’ wasn’t going to work.” 

Daneen quickly began crafting a simple, classic, and sophisticated, menu to match the super small kitchen space. She spent many long days and agonizingly late nights organizing and planning the execution and implementation stages, including creating recipes, pairing wines, and rearranging the kitchen to maximize the flow of food preparation and service. Ninety days after signing the lease, and with the help of many friends, Char 32 was born and opened to the public on January 25, 2018. 

“I love entertaining,” says Daneen. “Especially with friends and family at home, I like to decorate and add in the fun factor. I want everyone to be happy.” With the small kitchen at Char 32, Daneen requires a reservation. “People come to Char 32 to relax, visit, and have an unhurried dining experience. We want each visit to be special and we don’t turn tables often.” 

Located inside the elegant and historic Point Clear Tennis Club, Char 32 specializes in perfectly charred steaks, expertly prepared seafood, and beautifully plated desserts, made in-house. Char 32 serves the finest dishes made with fresh, high-quality ingredients (always local, when possible) prepared with precision and creativity, and guests appreciate the nuances of flavor, texture, and presentation. 

Char 32 is at the top of my list of favorite places to dine. Jeremy Ellis is the Executive Chef and does an amazing job. With a cozy, intimate ambiance and a laid-back vibe, Char 32 is sure to create a memorable experience.

One special occasion, the Sip into Summer Wine Dinner Series, will be held next Thursday, July 18 from 6 until 9 PM.    This event will have a French theme and will feature the “best of summer” food and wine pairings. 

Limited seats are available so please register today. Join Scenic 98 Coastal, Daneen, Jeremy, and the team at Char 32, Seth and Ree with Absintheminded Wine, David Gibson, the creator of Judge Roy Bean Spirits, and Admiral Shellfish Company farm-raised oysters. In addition to selected wines, you will be able to purchase specially curated local clay table decorations provided by our artisan friend, Shelley Leigh. 

We are creating the perfect setting for you and your friends to gather. We appreciate all of our partners in the effort and look forward to seeing you at the Red, White, and Rose’ Summer Splash Wine Dinner next Thursday.

Thank you, Daneen. It’s going to be wonderful! See below for a sneak peek at the menu and wine pairings!